PART 1 of 3! Frustrations...Staying Balanced!

As my adventure continues to unfold, I find myself constantly amazed at all there is to learn.  Everyday I am faced with a new challenge or obstacle that forces me to step outside myself and approach matters with a different perspective.  Because I am the first volunteer in my village, it has been difficult to communicate what exactly my role is. I am constantly faced with people asking or rather demanding money and it becomes tiresome.  The last 50 or so years since Senegal has embraced their independence, they have also received millions of dollars in aid. I am no expert, but living here I have somewhat of good idea of how NGO's  work and most of the projects initiated have failed to meet the needs of the people targeted.   Instead we have created a system, much like welfare in the United States.  People want free handouts and they often lack the drive or motivation to work.  I am generalizing of course, because there are many people who do work hard and serve to make their country better.  My point is to rather shed light on the fact that free handouts (in excess)  hinder a communities capability to advance rather than to stimulate it.   When people invest their own money or land, they are investing a part of themselves and are more likely to commit to making whatever it is successful.  They are also more concerned with taking care of it and making sure other people respect it.   Long story short...  Peace Corps attempts to use this strategy throughout the communities it serves, but as I am learning, people don't get it.   In my case, for example, they came to me asking for $600,000 to buy a new millet machine because the first one was given to them they felt no need to put money aside in case it breaks. Another frustration is that they don't want to pay the equivalent of a penny for mosquito repellent or learn to make it, they want it for free.  And we have no one to blame but ourselves for creating this type of dependency.

 Lately my biggest inner challenge is my rational vs. compassionate thinking.  Take for example the mosquito repellent.  It is rainy season right now and malaria is a huge problem. Despite the fact that  every person has a mosquito net and claims to sleep under it (thanks to a recent Malaria Prevention Campaign, see  http://www.pcsenegal.org/malaria/velingara.html for more info),   mosquito's come out at dusk so nets give little protection when eating dinner or chatting with your neighbors.

  The last few weeks I have been working to promote a natural repellent made from leaves, soap, water and a little oil. It is a lotion that works well in deterring mosquito's.  My compassionate thinking (or maybe its guilt) prompted me to give out  the first few batches for free. I gave one to every household and then taught whoever wanted to learn how to make it.  One of the girls really liked it and decided to sell it for the equivalence of a penny.  I was really excited until I was bombarded with requests for more.  However no one wanted to pay for it because they claim to have no money. And I sympathize with them because right now is the most difficult financial time of the year. However rationally, if not getting malaria is really important to them, they will find the 25 cfa to purchase it.  This is the sort of thing I find myself tangled up in.  These people are my friends and I don't want them to get sick, but at the same time I do not have the funding or resources to take care of everyone nor is it my job.  In short, it is a constant battle to remain balanced, think clearly, and remind myself what it is I am doing here. 

In Service Training, Goree Island and English Camp

It has been a busy month away from  sight and even though I have enjoyed the luxuries of running water, internet, diverse food choices and english, I am itching to get back to the calmness and quietness of village life.

My month started with a visit to Mbour to see my old host family and then a two week training in Thies. Training was intense and for entertainment sake I will not go into too much detail.   I now have new motivation to turn my backyard into a perma-culture dreamland, build some latrines and organize some health trainnings One night we ended up going to a hole in the wall dance club. It was in a completely shady part of town, but the live music was incredible. Here is a picture, hopefully i can get a video up soon.  The band is Waflash and the artist is Ma Sané.

After the madness of training,  I was fortunate to take a day and play tourist in Dakar.  A brother of one of the volunteers was in town so I joined them for a trip to Gorée island.  Gorée actually translates to "Good harbor".  After learning about its history, the name "good" is far from anything this place represents.  Between the 16th and 19th century, it was used as a transit island for slaves who were shipped across the Atlantic.  There is no need to go into detail about what the conditions were like because we have all taken history and know the terrible things our past entails.  It is now a tourist attraction as well as a place of residence for many.  The island is made from volcanic material and the coastline is absolutely stunning.

The next week was spent volunteering at a high school in Dakar at an english camp. This was by far the best thing I have done since being in country.  We spent a week teaching kids english through games and songs.  I got the chance to talk with the girls and ask them about their dreams.  Many of them wanted to be doctors, policemen, pilots, and teachers.  We talked about challenges they may face as women and how they felt about them.  It was really interesting to hear their responses and I felt lucky to witness such strong, intellectual, and motivated young girls.  We talked a lot about expressing yourself and being proud of who you are.  We got a bunch of magazines and had them design their own flag. We wanted them to create something that represented themselves. It turned out to be a great success and something I plan to do again in village.  I really enjoyed the opportunity to work with a school in Dakar, especially because it is so different than village. It allowed me to see the extreme contrasts that exist in this country and how different city life is.

Playing Steal the Bacon....It was Hilarious! 

Today is the start of Ramadan and as I prepare to re-enter my small oasis, I am a little nervous of the difficulties fasting may bring. I am also excited for this challenge and plan to embrace the spiritual qualities it has to offer. My own personal quest to be content and the gratitude that comes from this place will be my point of focus for the next month.  So until then my friends, Happy Ramadan!

An Island, a healer and a little more!

Someone related this experience to an Island.  An Island, that when you look closer, actually becomes a representation of your life. I am on a journey and discovering the beauty that makes this island radiate.  Each flower, stem, and leaf has a purpose and though it seems like they have been hidden for a long time, they now seem to be blooming full force.  Sometimes the thorns are not so fun to find, but they also have a place on this island and are an intricate part to its ecosystem.

The last week was a break through for me. I am not sure what made it happen but I, for the first time since arriving, felt as if things are starting to fall together. Life here is starting to make sense and I don’t feel so out of place or confused as I once did.  I am happy with my family and feel lucky to have the capability to connect with people on such a profound and intimate level.  I dance and laugh a lot which brings a lot of joy and a simple reminder that such things are important to appreciate.

I met one of the traditional healers from my village. This happened all by accident but ended up being such a beautiful exchange of information that I just have to share it.  I have been spending time going around to each compound and finding out how things work. It’s been absolutely fascinating and I could write a section in itself about the food production of my village, how companies exploit it, how hard everyone works, and how poor they still are. I could also talk about the programs that are being implemented to attack such issues. They in theory, have great intentions, but tackling such complex problems are quite complicated with no real concrete answers.   But I won’t go into depth because being pessimistic does not help anyone and there is already too much negativity in this world.  They are however, important to note because they do play a role in my work.

This post will be dedicated to the good things. They are happening and though they may seem insignificant, they do matter. Like having a conversation with the traditional healer.  He is roughly in his 80’s and spends most of his time lying on a bamboo shade structure or in his hut because his body is to frail to tackle the challenges of African life he once had the strength to. He is good humored and his face is filled with lines of happiness. It is a happiness found amongst those who have experienced life, accept it, embrace it and are ready for it’s end.  His grey hairs are few and decorate his balding head like tinsel on a Christmas tree. His wife sits beside him with missing teeth and black gums that remind me of licorice. Her days too, are limited but her presence is awakening. She holds my hand as she tries to convince me that I should marry her grandson.  They are both happy I am there, asking them about their lives, and curious about their work.

 They were gracious enough to teach me about Kankiliba which is a tea used for tummy issues. They also showed me another leaf that they grind and then use to heal injuries. This knowledge was taught to him as an adolescent from his uncle.  His children now collect the leaves and he prepares them and gives them to those who come seeking his treatment.

I have also spent some time working in the fields, which makes me appreciate massages and chiropractors a whole lot more. Once harvest comes and school starts back up I will get to spend a lot more time in the classroom working with the kids. I have some project ideas that the school director is really excited to work with me on regarding health and nutrition.  The health committee was finally changed and I have a great group of people wanting to work and educate their community. As the Pulaar’s say “seda seda” little by little!  As the discovery of my own personal island unravels so do the things that make life here special. 

Pulling Water

One of the biggest challenges is getting water from the Well. It seems
so simple right? Put the bucket into the water and pull it out.  I
think it is some sick joke because it does not work like that. There
is this technique to flicking the rope to get the bucket to turn over.
I cannot tell you how frustrating this process is. After about attempt
number 15 someone usually comes over laughing and does it with one
flick.  The worst is laundry day because not only does doing laundry
take forever by hand, but also I have to get 6 buckets of water! That
is 6 times of trying to fill up the bucket. Then if you add water for
gardening or bathing...man oh man. It's like all I do all day is pull
water.   My family also thinks I am crazy because after I pull the
water I filter it and bleach it.  You too may find this strange,
however you may change your mind when I tell you a bat flew out of the
well the other night.  Yes, no joke!  A BAT!

5 Top Pulaa Sounds!

I am on a mission to not only master the Pulaar language, but to perfect the ridiculous sounds that accompany it.   This was inspired the other day over Cosan and Lycherie.  I was making  fun of my brothers and told the five things that make them Senegalese.

# 1 Saying Yes with a click, a double click.
#2  A High pitch, short "Aie" sound that is in response to something exciting.  Example,  someone almost scoring a goal.
#3 The dragged out "Yo"when they agree with what you say..
#4 The "NAM"   "NAM"...and this continues, when they want you to eat more
#5  The "WHYYYY"  usually used when stretching (similar to our mmm moan) and also used when they have a headache.

And there you have it. Top 5 Pulaar sounds by Jenae! 

Wedding, Baptism, and Tropical Rains

Wedding, Baptism, and Tropical Rains

My life in the village has been quite busy and I am constantly learning about new customs and traditions. Within the span of three days, I attended a wedding, and a baptism as well as surviving my first tropical storm. 

Senegalese weddings are quite interesting and with my limited language skills I did my best to observe the kaos. My sister Mouna (pictured to the right) has become one of my good friends and shares my fun and enthusiastic outlook on life. She attempted to explain the process of the ceremony. 

Day 1: The day before the bride arrives, all the women get together to prepare food for the upcoming festivities.  I have unofficially named it the “pounding party” because it is a lot of women laughing, chatting, and pounding. .  My site mate, Cara, and I joined in on the fun; but found our lack of arm strength and inability to keep a beat resulted in entertainment for the party.  It’s amazing how harmoniously the rhythm of pounding sounds. I am convinced someone should make a music video of it.  ( I did make a video but it takes so long to upload! )

Day 2: Along with continuing to prepare food, this day initiates the start of a never-ending dance party. Don’t ask me why, but they start dancing to the drums mid afternoon when it is hotter than you can even imagine. They dance to the drums in front of the house and in the room where the bride will stay. I think to create good energy! As the day moves along everyone slowly finds their way to the house of the groom and future bride.  The men and women socialize separately and eat Cheb or Lacherie.  (Or if you are me, you eat both). When the sun gets cooler, they set up a generator for cheesy DJ music.  The dancing continues until about 10 or 11pm when the bride finally arrives on a bus with her family.  The men of both families get together and talk.  It consists of lots of shouting. My guess is they are negotiating the bride price or something to that extent.  While this is happening, the bride accompanined by the women of her family sit and wait. The bride wears white and her face is hidden behind a thick and lacy material. I wanted to take a picture, but I did not get a chance.  After the negotiation finishes they take the bride to her room. She stays there with the women of her family while the dancing continues until 3 or 4 in the morning.

Day 3:  I was so tired from dancing all night that I only returned to greet people and eat lunch. This day is also spent dancing while the bride remains in the room. Finally that night she leaves the room to join her husband in their new hut.  I didn’t stick around for this so I do not have too many details, but I am sure there will be plenty of more weddings. It was fun to actually look pretty for a day, though all my makeup sweated off as soon as I put it on.

The night of the third day, I experienced my first tropical African storm. It was so scary that I ended up sleeping in a room with my whole family.  The wind was incredible and the thunder and lighting was unreal. The next morning I spent two hours cleaning all the debris and sweeping the 2 inch layer of dust out of my hut. Not to self : when family warns “there is a storm coming”  shut and lock doors!  Here is a picture I took right before the storm. It was pretty erie and I really love the lighting.

After the storm, I attended a baptism for my neighbor. It is customary to bring soap or money so I gave the mother soap and got to hold the baby. It was so tiny, only 3 days old.  The way this ceremony works is all the men meet in the morning to decide on a proper name.  In this case, he was given the name Ibrahima. Once this is decided, everyone hangs out and talks.  (Akward times for the white person for I always seem to be the entertainment for the party) Anyways the day is spent eating and dancing.  

Besides being quite the social butterfly, I am actually doing work, I promise!  I painted a mural at the school and am working to get a causerie about hand washing for the kids.  (picture below)  I am a little frustrated with the Health post. It turns out there is some controversy with money and medicine so I am trying to figure it out before rainy season starts (when illnesses are the highest).

 I have also planted about 50 trees and am excited they are starting to sprout.   I am looking to get watermelon seeds and plant them for the rainy season.  Gardening is sooo fun!!!  (a great stress relief) 

I am also working on creating a map of the village.  I did not realize how difficult it was to hand draw these things. I could sure use a hand held GPS and some GIS hardware right about now.  I hope to digitalize it eventually. I think it would be cool, geographers, let me know if you want to help me out with this.

Anyways sorry for such a long note. Busy times here! Lots of love <3

Until next time, Jenae

Made it through the Wilderness

*Have been trying to post pictures all night and its not working. I will try to post some soon!

Hello Friends,

 I hope this email finds you well wherever you are. Things here are good!  I am learning to embrace a life much  slower paced than I am used to. My village is great and I really like the family I am living with.  My host father is a cattle herder and owns an ample number of cows. I got to help round them up the other day and will be helping  milk them next week.  I have come to love these cows because they provide the most delicious milk, which after being left to sour is then mixed with sugar to create, what they call, Coasn.  It is then usually  added to rice or letcherie and, oh my, its the best!

  My host father is not only the village chief, but has three of his children living in Spain thus my family is a little more patron then others.  He is a very quiet and content man who is extremely interesting to observe.  I was watching him make rope the other day and it was absolutely fascinating. I am amazed at how the people function here and how they find a use for everything.  For example, after unpacking all my stuff i had some cardboard boxes. I told my mom i did not need them and gave them to her to throw away.  A couple hours later I saw one of the little boys running around pulling the box by a string.  Then the next day it became a trough for the donkeys. 

My host mom is a gentle giant. She is loving but I would no way want to be enemies with this huge Pulaar woman. She is the president of the women's group and holds a lot of ground in the community. I  got to accompany her on National Women's Day (of Senegal) where i met a lot of the local officials.

My host parents have 10 children aging from 9-30. 3 of them live in the village, 3 of them in spain, 1 in darkar and 3 in Vellingara.  One of the sons who lives in Spain has a house in Velingara where his wife and their children live. (accompanied by some of his siblings)  It's really nice and they have a TV. Which means soap operas with english subtitles.  I can't tell you how nice it is to watch TV after a long day of speaking Pulaar.  I am also addicted to the TV show GLEE which is apparently popular back in the states.  PC's have a remarkable collection of downloads.

So besides drinking lots of Cosan, my meals consist of laicirri, rice, and millet.  My family makes me eat so much,  It has has actually become a game.  Before I understood how to play this game I would  find my self extremely full.  If you say you are full, they laugh at you and say "no eat more you are too skinny".  Then I respond, "no really i am sooo full i can't eat anymore, my tummy is too big."  they say "no eat". i say "no". They say "take two more bites", i say "okay" and take two more bites and then they say "they were small bites take two more". It goes on like this for about 15 minutes.  So I have just learned to say "I am full" when I am about really half way full.  It works quite well.

I got to help with a vaccination campaign and meet the health workers in the two villages next to mine. I have been very stimulated meeting so many new people. They are all very excited to get projects going and work with me. Another volunteer and i are working on a bike project for the health workers. I will be emailing about that in the next couple of months. Right now my work consists of learning the language, adjusting into a new community and connecting with it's people.



It has only been a week, but I find that  going to sleep under the stars and rising with the sun is quite wonderful.  Though I could do without the biting ants, and scorpians running around the dinner bowl, I am leaning to embrace this new simplistic lifestyle.

Miss you all! Thanks for reading. There is so much more to share about my new family, but so little time. Hope to give you more details soon.
until next time,
Jenae