Girls,Education, Dreams and Empowerment

When you educate a girl in Africa, everything changes. She’ll be three times less likely to get HIV/AIDS, earn 25 percent more income and Have fewer, healthier children who are 40 percent more likely to live past the age of five

All the girls with their certificates!

In Obama’s last public speech he made a point to address why “ girls' education is so fundamental in the developing world.”   This idea is nothing new, for many influential people who are dedicating their lives to this cause.  Books like “Half the Sky” have recently brought people like you and me the truth about the unfortunate status of women in developing countries.  Sex trafficking, abuse, female genital mutilation and other crimes against women will continue until people like you and me make efforts to change it.  From a security standpoint education is a vital means to combat the ignorance that fuels terrorists.  There is nothing more important to me then allocating my time to fight the injustice of ignorance. 

The literacy rate of women in Senegal is 29% as opposed to the 51% of men.  That is a terribly low number and unfortunately little is being done to improve it.  There are more girls going to school then 10 years ago, but the number is still small.   If a girl is lucky enough to make it though school in village and attend junior high, there is a large chance that she will not make it past the 6th grade.  In the local CEM (which is equivalent to an American Junior High School of 6th, 7th, and 8th grade) there are 163 girls in the 6th grade, but only 40 in the 8th grade. There are numerous reasons for this decline:  Sometimes once they enter 6th grade they are not at the literacy level they need to be and are unable to keep up, they become pregnant and drop out, or they are forced into early marriage.  If girls live far and do not have parental support then it might make it difficult to complete homework and have good attendance.

For children who do go to school, they are taught very little.  The education system is quite problematic. In my village and those surrounding it, school is supposed to start in the beginning of October but usually does not start until late November.  Once it does start the teachers have strikes so frequently that one would think the school week is only 3 days.  Unfortunately when I say that, I am not joking. With the limited time they are in school, they do not have any books or supplemental material. They have notebooks that they write the days lesson in and then repeat it until it’s committed to memory.    The other day my 10-year-old sister was talking to me about school. Her teacher had not been to class in a week and so I offered to help her. We looked at her notebook and I started asking questions. She had no idea what anything meant, and when asked to write she could barley scribble her name.  I was dumbstruck! No wonder children cannot continue on with their education, their foundations are so weak. 

The girls that can keep up have to fight in order to continue with their education.  A lot of the times, girls who travel into the city may stay at a family’s house where they are expected to clean and cook as an exchange for rent.  This is also the age of puberty and without strong supervision many of these girls fall victim of molestation, pregnancy, and even AIDS.  Of course sometimes it is out of choice, but the culture makes it difficult for girls to turn down men, especially when they are older or in a place in authority.

It is because of these reasons that Allyson, Samantha and myself decided that a leadership conference was an excellent idea.  We wanted to target girls in the 6th grade and hold a two-day conference to promote the importance of education.  We could not invite all 163 girls due to the large number, but we worked with the teachers to choose 50 girls who demonstrated a good work ethic. We also invited our 9 scholarship nominees. (My next blog post will cover the information regarding that)

We had Awa Traore facilitate the conference and invited working women throughout the local community to help out and share their story.  Day 1 started with the showing of the film    “Elle Travaille, Elle Vit”  (Girl works, girl lives)      here is the link:   http://vimeo.com/2090386     

 It interviews women in different fields of work and asks them how they got there, the struggles they have faced, and advice for younger girls seeking careers.   After the film there was a follow up discussion with Awa that led into a panelist session.  We had five women: a doctor, a food transformationist, a teacher, a journalist, and a NGO worker.  They all took turns sharing their story, and talking about the importance of education.  We then had a session about goal setting where the girls broke into groups to come up with a long-term goal and then three steps they need to take in order to get there.  They then presented this in front of everyone.  We then told them how much support they have and we gave out bracelets to remind them of their dream.

The next day was spent addressing challenges they may face in pursuing their dreams.  We had a session on health where we talked about AIDS, STD’s and other issues related to women’s health. Our Doctor talked about the risks of early pregnancy and contraceptive methods. (Early pregnancy is a huge huge problem in this area).  We invited a parent for each student to join us for an afternoon session. Awa talked to the parents about their roles and how they can better support their daughters. She brought up sensitive issues, which forced parents to talk to their daughters about things that would more than likely be ignored.  This session was incredibly successful and it ended with a theater group performance and the handing out of certificates.  Each girl was presented a participation certificate and the Sous Preferet (government official) gave a speech about the importance of women’s education (which was a really big deal)!

Our goal of the conference was of course to encourage girls to stay in school but more so to empower them with a dream.  We wanted the community to see that we as volunteers/Americans view them as important and special. We wanted their parents to know they have amazing daughters who have the ability to make a difference for their communities, families and world.  We wanted the girls to understand they are worth more than they think and to inspire their confidence.  Steps to change education on a larger scale are difficult, but if we made a difference in one girl’s life then the hard work preparing for such an event was worth it.  That girl could be the next Awa, the next doctor, or even the next Rosa Parks.  As Marian Wright Edelman once said “ we must not, in trying to think about how we can make a big difference, ignore the small daily difference we can make which, over time, add up to big differences that we often cannot foresee."

This blog post is an attempt to light a fire within all who read it.  We are people who have been educated in an amazing part of the world. We have the power to make change, we have the power to combat injustice, and we have the ability to make a difference. It does not mean we have to get on a plane to Africa or Asia, it doesn’t mean we have to give up our savings, but a little contribution can make a world of difference.  This conference was funded because of ordinary people who understand that the education of girls is important. If any of you want to get involved in supporting projects like this, there are hundreds of organizations out there. SENEGAD is an organization created by volunteers in Senegal and of the funding it receives goes to events like the one just discussed. Here is the link to learn more:   http://senegad.pcsenegal.org/links.html

And here is a link to  Half the Sky’s list of organizations you can get involved with!

http://www.halftheskymovement.org/get-involved

  "
The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams."   Eleanor Roosevelt

AWA talking to the Girls about Goal Setting

The amazing Panelists Awa, Nene Galle, Salimatou, Mama Ramata Diallo,  Nane Ndeye et Salimatou

Koun Kane Volunteers! What!

Session with the parents! 

Scholarship girls

I

Living with Islam

Many people have loads of questions when they discover that I live in a Muslim community.  Due to events throughout the past several years many Americans have a misconception of this demographic of people. They relate Muslims and Islam to Terrorists. This is not true!  This ignorance is fueled by fear and a lack of understanding.  People who practice this religion are some of the most spiritual, accepting, and kind hearted souls I have ever endured.  Yes, it is true that terrorists also claim to follow Islam and thanks to this association many Americans make such an unfortunate connection.  It is also correct that many claim to be a muslim yet go through the motions in such a way that they never truly experience the peace that is possible to obtain. This is a truth that all religions seem to share.  Anywhere in the world you will find people who practice because they truly worship a powerful entity and understand the power and importance of love, you will find people who want to believe but struggle, you find people who claim to believe and use it for power, hate, control and to manipulate others, and you will find those who practice out of routine or culture.  All of these are true in any religion just as they are the same in Islam. 

 One of the most amazing things about Senegal and the people who reside here is the incredible acceptance of everyone.  The community members where I live are predominately muslim.  They pray 5 times a day; go to the mosque every Friday; and they claim Allah is the one true God with Muhamad as his prophet.  Based on my observations I would say there is a mix of those who practice because it's their culture and those who truly are spiritual beings and understand God in an incredible way. It is also interesting to see the correlation and mix of Islam with traditional African practices. 

I asked a dear friend who spent time in the Untied States (and whose english is perfect) what it meant to be a Muslim.   His response was:  "A muslim is someone who submits themselves to the will of god, that's it! that's the key! All the other stuff does not matter because if every day you wake up and commit yourself to following God's will, and you do it with your whole heart, than you can't go wrong".  My response of course followed up with questions about God's will, what it was exactly and our conversation flowed for more than two hours as he described his life and his beliefs.  It was one of the most amazing conversations I have ever participated in. After it was over I felt something in me change and for the first time I truly related to this person (a follower of Islam)  on a spiritual level.   I don't make claim to a particular religion and I can't put my beliefs into words, but the connection I made was one I know we all  have the potential to experience.  We are all humans and our souls seek the same answers. We may interpret this process differently but the core of our inner workings speak the same language.  If we could just stop, let go of all the misconceptions, lies, misunderstandings, and fears then we could spend our lives creating good, loving and fulfilling the purpose of our being. 

In Senegal, there are many national holidays that are celebrated throughout the country such as Easter, Christmas, Tobaski, and even some indigenous ones. It is truly amazing how accepting everyone is. You are who you are and you will be loved for that.  It doesn’t mean people won't gossip and call you crazy, or get into arguments over the most ridiculous and petty things, but a general love for humans exits in a way that  I have never before experienced. One thing is for sure, whoever you are you will always have a place at someone's table  (or bowl) you will always have a place to sleep and people, once you acquire their loyalty, will stand by you. 

There are also things that drive me crazy about this culture and its often times related to old religious traditions, but learning empathy and accepting differences is (in my opinion) the best lesson you could ever learn.  It is one that takes constant effort and diligence, but if pursued has the potential to radically change your being.  So I challenge you to practice love, practice acceptance, and practice empathy. They are true virtues that will make our world better.

Until next time

Fatimata <3 






p/s  I wrote a bunch more about the death of Bin Ladin and how the people here interpret it here.  I will post that soon, along with my visit with the Ambassador and her thoughts on Peace Corps as an excellent part of our foreign policy. Super interesting stuff....  I would love to encourage you to listen to Obama's latest speech about the Muslim world. (If you have not done so already).  He discusses some valuable information! Here is the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-M_CA0orW08

Nyam...Nyam Buy!

NYAM  (EAT) 

I don't think there has ever before been a time in my life that I appreciated food as much as I do now. I have simply made it a mission to conquer the art of cooking.  When presented with the opportunity to do so my goal is to create the most beautiful entrée that radiates with both taste and design.  You may ask, where does this new desire come from?  My response is that after eating a year of village food my body appreciates taste more than ever.  I want to clarify that village and Senegalese food, though resemble one another, are quite different.  It is like saying BJ’s Pizza is the same as Papa John’s (sorry California comparison). The only difference is, when under the influence of your favorite alcoholic beverage, Papa John’s actually tastes decent. Village food, on the other hand, has become something I put into my body in order to function.

It is quite important to understand that Senegal, like any other country, varies from region to region in economics, education, and even culture. What may be true in the North may be completely different in the South.  Even in the south villages may follow extremely different practices than their neighbors. (I will go into the cultural aspect in my next blog but for now it remains food.) Cities and towns are much different than villages; therefore the quality of food changes as you travel throughout these different communities.  One of the most popular questions I am asked, by outsiders is  “What do you eat.”

I know I have mentioned this before but, to clarify, I live in the land of Pulaars.  Pulaars are located around West Africa and are typically known as cow herders. I live in an area where Fulakunda is spoken (a different dialect originated in southern Senegal). Thanks to the large number of cows that share my living space, dairy products tend to be a staple. My village also farms peanuts, corn, other types of grain, and rice.  These are the essential staples to my diet. Fish is an occasionally luxury and chicken or red meat is a gift from Allah.

A Typical Day of Meals:

Breakfast (kachatari)- There are a few choices for breakfast. They usually switch it up every day so you have something a little different. 

1.                    Gossi is one of the most popular dishes. To be called Gossi it can have a minimum of boiled rice that imitates a thick porridge. In village, especially during the starving season, this is what is served.  Often times they will add peanuts to it (crushed and grinded of course) and if they feel like splurging they will add sugar and sometimes Kosam (soured milk like a non flavored yogurt).  In my household it usually contains peanuts and Kosam but most of the time it does not have sugar.  I just have to say that I am not a big sugar person, but Gossi without it is a good remedy if you want to make yourself gag.

2.                    Mouni is another popular dish. It is prepared the day before by sifting a type of millet, adding water and forming tiny little balls. A rotational movement of the millet forms the tiny Mouni balls. The water and the right hand technique causes them to stick together. (It's a difficult process to explain and even harder to try). It then, like Gossi, is formed into porridge.  Again depending on financial means Kosam and sugar are added to taste.

3.                    Kosam and millet  This is usually consumed by adults in families that have more money. It is Kosam with sugar (like yummy yogurt) with hard millet added to it.  The millet is not soft and ball shape like the mouni, but instead has a texture like a fine grain cereal.  This is by far my favorite choice but is not often served.

4.                    Bread and Coffee- Thank the French for their baguette, which is a popular choice for those who live near a bakery. (cities and towns)  They usually eat it with butter, mayo, or chocolate with this terrible coffee called Nescafe. Instant coffee that, ugh I cringe just thinking about it).

I ate breakfast with my family in the begging but have currently discovered that by body now rejects it.  Instead, I drink my imported Starbucks or Dunken doughnuts, with imported granola.  Sorry I just can’t support the local cause in this matter. 

Hadji eating Gossi for dinner  with the same face I have when forced to eat it :) 

Palm oil, locally known as Tentalou


Lunch (Botarri)  Lunch, if prepared well can be some of the most amazing food I have ever eaten. Again, most of this amazingness has been experienced outside of village.

            1.Cheb- is one of the most famous dishes in Senegal. There are two different types: Red and White Cheb. (my favorite is the red)  White refers to white rice while red refers to rice that is cooked in tomato juice and oil. The best cheb is when rice is served in a large bowl (shared with everyone) with veggies (typically an eggplant, cabbage, carrot, turnip and bitter tomato) and fish.  They are  put in the middle of the dish where everyone will share by tearing off small pieces and eating it with the rice in front of them.  The veggies are limited to what is in season and accessible at the time.  Sometimes (really good cheb) will have Tamerain (a tree seed that is cooked and is delicious)  accompanied by Follerae. (Boiled okra and leaves that are smashed and mixed together to make a sticky green substance. Also if cheb is really good, the fish will be stuffed with parsley, garlic, hot pepper mixture that is delightful.

            2. Yassa (my favorite) can be made with goat, chicken, beef, fish, or have no meat at all.  If there is meat it is marinated in oil, onion potato, & garlic sauce. It’s cooked and then served over rice.  If there is no meat then just the sauce is served over rice. In village there is usually no meat so we eat sauce and rice.

            3. Maffe Gerte- Is a peanut sauce that is cooked with oil and seasonings that is served over rice. The more money you have the more likely you are to have meat or vegetables with it. In village it is usually a peanut sauce, lightly seasoned. I used to like it, but it’s hard to eat it 5 days in a row. (yes this is what I typically eat for lunch.

            4. Fish Balls-  These are my favorite things to make. I find them so interesting, and if done correctly, absolutely delicious.  After the bones have been removed, the fish is pounded into a thick texture with garlic, onion, sometimes parsley, salt, and pepper. You also add a little water and dry grinded peanuts to hold it together. They are then lightly fried and then added to either an onion sauce, or leaf sauce and served over rice.

5.  Kodde or rice with Follerae- The worst meal ever! It is also one of the most commonly served in village. It is a thick type of millet or rice served with sticky green paste.  The paste is good with cheb, but is not filling when served with just rice. They also will add a little red palm oil which is not very good. 

If you go to the market, this is what they typical lunch table looks like. 

Barbie eatingYassa with no meat!

Dinner (Hirrande) There are two things eaten for dinner though it’s not un common to have gossi, when times are difficult.

1.     Lacherie Jambo-  Corn is pounded and then steamed which makes it similar to a quinoa type of texture.  The sauce varies;  sometimes it is a light watery peanut sauce, a thick leaf sauce, or if in the rare occasion your family is awesome a bean sauce.  For the most part it is the watery peanut or leaf sauce.

2.     Futonk – This is sticky white rice cooked with grinded peanuts and dried fish. It is salty and not bad tasting, but definitely not fulfilling.  

Leaf sauce

Adama (host sister) preparing lacheri 

Red Cheb fancy style with meat!

Growing Pains

“When in pain be like flowing water. When suffering near the bottom, feed off what you can, like the brilliant fish, and spit back the rest. When feeling burdened, watch small birds to see how they begin to fly. When feeling finished, watch newborn animals open their wet little eyes and imitate their innocence. Once giving full attention, you will come back-one drop at a time-into the tide of the living”

(Easier said then done, right?)

My baby goats Happiness and Princess

Pain, suffering, burdened, finished, etc. It is so bizarre how all these things seem to hit you at once.  One moment you feel like you are on top of the world and the next you are at the bottom of a well screaming for someone to pull you out.   Never before in my life have I felt the changing of emotions so strongly.  Maybe it’s because, in America, life moves at a more rapid pace and all the distractions inhibit ones ability to follow the swinging pendulum of life.   It could also be that, in America, I don’t sound like a two year old and can express at assert myself more readily.  It is also very possible that the need to prove myself and understand the purpose of my work is not so intense.  There are many reasons to justify my recent unstable state of mind.   However understanding why life is so much harder here does not make dealing with my struggles any easier.

The last month has been the longest and most trying period thus far.  I felt quite powerless as I observed my life unfolding before my eyes.  I found myself lost in an abyss, unable to justify my actions. Because of this lack of control I was overcome with guilt. It was like a cloud of guilt was following me wherever I went. It was guilt of not being stronger, not being able to fight through, and succumbing to my weakness. Confusing weakness with letting go, I refused to be broken!  I wish that my competitiveness would subside once in a while. I wish I could allow myself to obey the natural flow of the universe without trying so desperately to control it.  This is the battle I am currently. I am growing and the coming to terms with my stuborness is quite an adventure.

I have a memory of growing pains from my childhood. I remember being on vacation and being so miserable because my body ached all over. I remember my mom telling me that my body was growing and that the pain would go away. It’s funny how such a physical change can be related to the process I now face mentally. This process of growing reminds me of another conversation I recently had with a friend.  We were talking about the 7 year cycle.

 The “7 year cycle” is based on the theory that your body actually sheds a layer of skin every 7 years.  Though science argues that everybody’s rate of change is different, many cultures and mystical theories attribute a magical force relating to the number 7.   It is thought to be a year of reflection and stillness, but also a year of deep insight and emotions.  Though I am not in this 7^th year, I feel as if this process has begun to unfold.  It is like my body is preparing itself to shed. This ephianey came to me in a dream that I later contemplated over my ritual morning coffee. I saw myself so clearly being transformed. In this image I remember thinking numerous things about growth, but the one that registered strongly was the idea of shedding skin.  I was standing naked in the middle of space with my hands at my heart. They preceded to remove my skin like a thick winter coat. As it was being removed, a powerful white light engulfed me. I can relate it to the Little Mermaid when Ariel is transformed into a human.  A powerful moment that  physically and emotionally alters you into a new person, a new state of being.

It is this transformation that I was met with understanding. It was as if someone was saying “be patient, trust and try to comprehend that it is long and painful road. You may feel stuck at the bottom of a well, but you will survive it.  You will figure out how to climb out.”

As all this mental insight was bombarding my brain I was also unfortunate to fall victim of Amoebas. (a parasite that if you want to know more about you can click here: http://www.parasitecleanse.com/amoeba.htm). I didn’t eat or move for three days and spent most of my time sprawled out on the floor of my hut praying for the polar forces to shift and make Senegal’s heat disappear.  I did manage to have energy to read Andre Agassi’s biography “Open”.  I felt myself relating to his journey with tennis to my journey of life. There were a few quotes that moved me, the follwoing being one of them:

“Life is a tennis match between polar opposites. Winning and losing, love and hate, open and closed. It helps to recognize that painful fact early. Then recognize the polar opposites within yourself, and if you can’t embrace them, or reconcile them, at least accept them and move on. The only thing you can not do is ignore them.”

That word “ignore” struck a cord with me.  The way he wrote it made me question whether ignoring this pendulum of life is an option. I don’t think we can ignore it entirely but we do have the decision to dive into it or not. We also have the capacitiy to be aware of the shifts within our body. We have the ability to embrace the pain and pick out the thorns as much as we have the ability to prevent ourselves from feeling it at all. Distractions are a good vice for escaping and I find that, in my current situation, all my vices have been removed.  Senegal has made it more difficult to ignore the rawness of life.  This theme is being woven into my soul and it is something that comes up frequently in my journal entries, emails, and blogs.

As Andre put is:

“It’s inexplicable, mystical, these twin forces, these contradictory energies, but they both exisit, I know because I have spent much of my life seeking the one, fighting the other, and sometimes I’ve been stuck, suspended, bounced like a tennis ball between the two.”

I would like to conclude with acknowledging the process within you. I don’t think you have to travel around the world to face these types of challenges. You can be anywhere in any type of situation and feel the need to grieve. Grieve for that layer of skin you are loosing and bathe in the pain that the sorrow brings. I think we as humans need to do a better job at accepting this process within ourselves and within others.  If we are more honest in our challenges then the possibility  to relate on a deeper demension of life becomes achievable. Maybe then we can heal ourselves in this crazy world, together.



P/S Next blog will be about Senegelese food, the market and all that good stuff! 

Feelings

 This past month or so I have felt this incredible flow of energy moving through me. It has brought to surface many new emotions, feelings, and desires.   I was at a loss of how to interpret it all.  This morning as I did my yoga and meditated, I felt something new and a little different.  I felt that life was trying to convey something to me and so I picked up my book  (thanks z & v) and sure enough I came across a quote that struck me as un-coincidental. It was fantastic and I felt the need to share. This is not my usual type of post,  but I hope you enjoy it anyways.

I continue to struggle with what people think.  I am affected when someone becomes angry or disappointed with me and it tears me up.  It is something I have struggled with for years.  I was not aware of its influence over my body until I came to Senegal.   For some reason, under these conditions, I have come face-to-face with a choice to either let it destroy me or fight it.   This battle is an emotional one and it can be quite draining at times.  It is easy to get sucked into the game of wanting to please everyone, or feeling the need to do so.      One day it is “Buy me a millet machine” the next it’s “give me medicine”.  It is hard to say no!  It is hard to understand that giving things out for free perpetually hinders their ability to grow and develop.   I tell myself this, but am then filled with guilt and a longing to make a difference, even if it is a short term fix. 

They wonder...   she comes from America (the land of riches) why am I not doing extraordinary things like fixing their roads, bringing electricity and raising the dead from their graves. 

  All she does is hang out with the girls and plan events that try to motivate them to stay in school.  School is great, but I need my daughter to help around the house. Why doesn’t she just fix our well pump that would really help? 

It is hard not to let these ideas bring you down. It is hard to explain why I am in this country. It is hard not to constantly feel guilty for taking a day off.  It’s just HARD and I care way too much. 

“How does one stay open to what others feel, and not to what they think? We cannot live without being affected by others, but we are only real when we let truth and love shape us from within. Our want to be liked, out want to avoid conflict, out want to be understand- all these traits tease us away from taking the voice within seriously.”

How does one recognize this voice and listen to it regularly? I guess the voice itself is a whole other blog discussion, some call it god, others call it a guide, and some call it a neurological response. There is no need to debate what it is.  If we ultimately acknowledge that something in our body directs us in making decisions, or stimulates emotions, then we should go about learning more about it and possibly figuring out how to listen to it.    (going off subject a bit...) 

The need to please others happens everywhere in the world. The pressure of society, friends and family all challenge us to act or behave a certain way.  Many times we loose our voice and compromise.   We do it in relationships, jobs, and even with strangers.  Why do we care so much? How does one not care so much without being empathetic?  Discovering the answer to that question is been my journey these past few weeks.  

and to be honest, I have no answer. The book says listen to the voice within. I say "What do you think?" 

Transportation

Transportation:

It’s 7pm, I have been on a bus for 8 hours and we are approaching the half -way point.  I am starving and day dreaming about the delicious bean sandwich that I will devour at the next stop.  (yes bread and beans, it’s amazing!) All of a sudden a terrible screeching sound fills the air. I’m guessing it’s a flat tire. This is not at all surprising because they happen all the time.   Most of the roads are dirt and the ones that are paved have terrible potholes.   The bus pulls over and all the Senegalese people file off the bus. They stretch their limbs and gather around to tell the driver how to properly fix the tire.

This scenario is quite common and one I have experienced a few too many times.  This story, however, plays out a little differently.   We waited about 20 minutes before we were ready to continue our journey.    I find myself sighing with relief. One it did not take that long and second, I am really hungry.   About a minute and a half passes before the sound comes back.  This time it is accompanied by smoke and the smell of something burning.  We pull over again and this time the atmosphere is a little less optimistic.  We are in the middle of nowhere with no towns, just open fields full of trees and bushes.

An hour or two pass by and they are still diligently working (now by flashlight).  It appears the axel is the major problem. which seems to be the problem.  Another hour passes and people are starting to make a fire in front and behind the bus to keep warm.  (Though it’s probably on 70 degrees outside) It appears we are not going anywhere for a while. Someone tells me they sent a mechanic to buy and part and that he should be returning soon.  I receive that with a little bit of hope because god knows when that will be.  I instead simply day dream about AAA and imagine how cool it would be if they were located worldwide.    I don’t bother to sleep because the bus is full of bodies sprawled out all over the seats. I am not that tired so instead I continue to read Stephanie Myer’s, The Host by the light of my nook. (Good junk food book, by the way)

  Time continues to pass and eventually after 6 hours of being stuck on the side of the road, another bus pulls up. In a matter of seconds people are shoving and pushing to claim a good seat. Now, one would think that the seats would remain the same.  And if this were the case I would still be sitting next to my friends. This is a good necessity especially when you need a shoulder to nap on.  But that simplicity is a little too difficult for Senegal. Instead a 20-minute yelling match breaks out over whose seat is whose. RIDICULOUS!  I do want to point out that the buses are not your typical Greyhound. They are falling apart and there is also no aisle. Instead, they have flip seats that allow for more people to cram into the already limited space. This time I am stuck between two men who want nothing more than to become my husband.  I try to zone them out with my headphones, but the guys are relentless.  

We finally make it to Tamba, the half way point, and even though its 1 am I still devour a delicious bean sandwich.   Our break happens quickly and we are off again.  Off for about 30 more minutes before we stop again. This time the smell is gasoline and it turns out there is a leak.  You have got to be kidding me right?  Fortunately it only takes 45 minutes to repair and that is, thank God, the last major delay of the trip.

Transportation is anything but easy. The night bus is how the majority of people travel. It is cheap, but it is long, especially when you encounter problems.  They second most common way of travel is by sept-place.  (7places)   These cars are old beat up station wagons.  Once in a while you will get a nice one, but for the most part they are falling apart.  Often times the door will be held together with rope and only the driver’s special technique can open it.  Sometimes it will open unexpectedly, and not always when the car is stopped.  The knob to roll down a window Is also a luxury as it a working radio that plays Senegalese music.  There is definitely no air conditioning or seatbelts.  The 3 seats in the back are the worst. There is no leg room and if your sitting in between two larger people, your know its going to be hard to walk in 8 hours when your back and but bones have been re arranged.  For a car that has 7 places plus the driver you would assume that is the total number of people that would be allowed to travel in it.   Oh no! My record is 13 people! Yes 13!

The third way to travel is by an “Alham”.  This is an old beat up min van. One usually takes this in the city (rather than a taxi) or to travel a shorter distance. This usually fits about 20 people though it’s not uncommon to have much more.  I usually take this when I want to travel to Velingara, where the post office is.  It stops frequently and usually has people hanging off the back or even on top.

Overall, each journey is an adventure and you really don’t know if you will get to your destination in 20 minutes or 3 hours.  When traveling in this country, one must learn to have humor and not stress over the small things.  (easier to say than do)  I want to promise if you come visit me, I won’t make you travel like this J  

Until next time

<3 J

Part 2: Tobaski

           
 Tobaski is a Muslim holiday that takes place mid-November. It commemorates the discipline Abraham showed when he willingly attempted to sacrifice his son. Before he could carry through with the command, God stopped him and provided a Ram to be sacrificed instead. 

Things were quite chaotic leading up to this holiday. I was in Velingara (larger town) the day before and I observed as people frantically finished their preparations. The streets were full of women and men selling and purchasing goats, buying food items, and pressuring the tailors to finish their outfits. The women sat around in groups braiding hair or rushed to the salon to have their extentions put in.   

 The day started, as most holidays here, with morning prayer.  Dressed in their best, the community gathered around a local tree to pray and give thanks to Allah.   Many of the younger women stayed behind to prepare food for the lunch feast.  I made Beignets  (fried bread dough) and helped cut up onions.   Once prayer ended, the children, men, and older women returned to take part in the sacrifice. 

Every family sacrifices a goat.  (I want to mention that buying a goat is a very big deal, an expense that truly comes as a sacrifice for many families). Everyone gathers around to say a prayer of thanks as the head of household slits the goat’s throat. This is the first time I have ever watched an animal die and it was a very beautiful yet tragic thing.  It gave me a mind-altering perspective and I don’t think I will be able to eat meat again without being reminded that a life was sacrificed in order to fulfill my desire to consume.  It is something, I think; we all should take time to appreciate more.  Everything we eat weather it be plants, fruits, or animals are part of a lifecycle that we are interrupting to fulfill our own.  Be thankful for it and recognize the sacrifice.

 I helped my family skin the goat and prepare the meat to be cooked. The first thing eaten was the liver followed by the ribs, and other organs. These were complemented with an onion, garlic mustard sauce that was quite tasty.  Lunch was served with meat, potatoes, and some veggies.  It seriously felt like thanksgiving because the food did not stop coming.  I went around to greet the village and was offered meat at every household.  No kidding, for the next week all we ate was left over meat until all of it was gone.  I can officially say I have tried goat testicles. You're jealous, I know!   

In the afternoon, I contributed by painting henna on all the girls.  They absolutely loved it and I am considering a career in Henna work (J) A soccer match concluded the day and everyone gathered around the pitch to watch the boys play.  It was a long day with lots of greetings, laughing and love.  Hope you enjoy the photos...

My host Father sacrificing the goat

With my brothers and host mom

Tobaski outfit with the girls